So it has become almost an annual tradition, where the
Tactical Terrain segment spends some time on how to make effective display
boards. This year is no exception. Tactical Terrain Eric here, and I am sharing with
you the behind the scenes of my latest project. Many of you saw it at BAO, but
today I show you the steps involved in the creation of this new display board.
Coming into a new tournament season, I wanted to make some
improvements. What I learned last year was:
Using the Dry Erase board was great until I tried to pick it up. I needed a way to get my fingers underneath the board to pick it up safely
I wanted to use magnetic bases to minimize sliding around as we shuffle back & forth from table to table
It still has to fit in my carry-on bag for air
travel.
Using the Dry Erase board was great until I tried to pick it up. I needed a way to get my fingers underneath the board to pick it up safely
I wanted to use magnetic bases to minimize sliding around as we shuffle back & forth from table to table
Cookie Sheet, slightly used |
Like many stories, this project has humble beginnings. I
used an ordinary, slightly used, 11”x 17” cookie sheet. This gives me the
handles I need to pick up the board easily from a flat table, and the steel material
allows the magnets to stick to the board wherever I put the models.
Next step was an experiment that paid off in spades. I
wanted to add a texture to the board, but I wanted to avoid flock or scale
ballast. I used this on my last board and found little bits in my socks after
every tournament I traveled to. I also needed a material that was thin enough
so the magnets would still connect to the cookie sheet. The solution was textured
wallpaper. It provided a textured look but still had a flat upper surface so I
didn’t have to worry about wobbly model syndrome.
Textured & Primed |
A quick shot of Crystal Blue Primer (to match the army) and
a dry brush of a Behr Sorcerer (yeah, I use Home Depot paints for terrain).
Things were well on their way to getting completed.
That was until I changed my list. I cannot recommend enough
try placing your army on your display board early and often as it can affect
the design. As you can see, I was running out of room quick.
Dry Brushing in progress |
My solution was (again) to build an upper deck. This year I
wanted to build something that I could take apart and collapse to fit in my
bag. Here was the original idea, just
using the foam to get enough space to make this work. I realized quickly there
were too many walls blocking the models from view, and this really did not
convey a 40k feel. For some reason “Nativity in Black” came to mind, so I got
out my Gothic arch templates and drew a pattern onto the foam.
Not much space left for the army |
Using my table saw hot wire cutter, the arches were cut out
in no time. A quick check of sight lines and assembly, we are on to the next
phase: adding detail. First, I used a hand held wire cutter to add weathered
look to all the corners. In retrospect, I made the archways a little too thin
and I was worried they may not withstand travel turbulence, but so far I was
proven wrong. If I were to do it again, I would have kept some foam along the
bottom of the arch to add stability.
Templates are essential part of terrain building |
After a few hours of cutting out tiny rectangles, I attached each of these stones around the archways. I wanted something with a little thickness so dry brushing would be easy in the later steps.
I gave the whole thing a coat of the previously mentioned Sorcerer grey color, followed by several dry brushed layers of a light grey.
Always cut foam in a well ventilated area |
Yeah! It fits! |
After a few hours of cutting out tiny rectangles, I attached each of these stones around the archways. I wanted something with a little thickness so dry brushing would be easy in the later steps.
I gave the whole thing a coat of the previously mentioned Sorcerer grey color, followed by several dry brushed layers of a light grey.
Now it was time for a backdrop. My original plan was to use a sci fi background with forced perspective to give the illusion of a vast planet scape when you pear out the window. In practice it was too dark and top heavy. Maybe next time I will be able to pull it off. As a substitute, I went with old favorite, stained glass.
Find a piece of art you like
Adjust the size of the image to fit within your arch
Print onto ordinary paper and inspect. You may need to adjust the brightness & contrast. Photoshop does have a “Stained Glass” filter that comes in handy for this
Once you have a printout you like, photocopy the image onto a clear transparency
I cut out random sections in the shape of jagged triangles to give it the broken glass look